Mangal Ho! ("Be Happy!")

I entered the “Dhamma Bodhi Meditation Centre” compound in Bodhgaya a day before the Vipassana course began. It had the look of an ex-army camp, surrounded by a high wall scattered with glass shreds (to keep us in or to keep everybody else out?). The pre-monsoon weather was hot and dry, and the compound was almost completely barren, save for a small patch of sunflowers with a sign next to it:

The vegetation is essential for the relaxing atmosphere in the Dhamma centre. Do not pluck any leaves or fruits within the centre compound. Be Happy!

Almost all the students were Indians, a good sign indicating this wasn’t an “export-spiritualism” course. I deposited my guitar, all my books and money and also my cynicism and skepticism at the reception. I’ve made up my mind to be as silent as the abbot of Latroune and as devoted as the Dalai Lama, at least for the coming ten days.