Shir-Khan or Tony the Tiger?
On my way to Varanasi, I diverged to visit Kanah National Park, the original setting of Kipling's "Jungle Book" and one of the best places to see tigers in India. I was convinced this to be my last chance to see tigers in the wild, knowing how badly conservation efforts are carried out. Just three days earlier I read in the paper of yet another park in which all tigers mysteriously "disappeared".
"We are currently making necessary investigations to see if the tigers have gone elsewhere"
was the official statement by the head park official. Indeed, I believe they are on their way, in bits and pieces, eastward to the black markets of China.
Upon arriving in Kanah, I was explained of the effective "system" for watching tigers in the park. First, the park rangers set off before dawn to track them down, following their marks and paying attention to distinctive alarm sounds made by potential prey. Once found, the tigers are surrounded by trained elephants, of which they are terrified, thus keeping them at bay. Next come the tourists, having paid 600 Rupees each, mounted on other trained, broken-spirited elephants, to watch the tigers up-close and take some photos.
Disturbed as I was by this method, I decided to go through with it, having gone this far already. When we approached the catch of the day, a magnificent big male, I expected to find it afraid and alert, as I assume a cornered down wild animal should be. Instead, the tiger lay quietly on its side, waving its massive yellow paw now and then to drive away the flies. Its eyes revealed a mixture of patience and boredom. It just seemed used to it all.
Hmm, I thought, I have seen this look before somewhere: in the safari zoo in Ramat-Gan.
"Actually, this is a good day. Usually Indian tourists shout at the tiger to make it look at them, for taking photos" said the ranger.
"We are currently making necessary investigations to see if the tigers have gone elsewhere"
was the official statement by the head park official. Indeed, I believe they are on their way, in bits and pieces, eastward to the black markets of China.
Upon arriving in Kanah, I was explained of the effective "system" for watching tigers in the park. First, the park rangers set off before dawn to track them down, following their marks and paying attention to distinctive alarm sounds made by potential prey. Once found, the tigers are surrounded by trained elephants, of which they are terrified, thus keeping them at bay. Next come the tourists, having paid 600 Rupees each, mounted on other trained, broken-spirited elephants, to watch the tigers up-close and take some photos.
Disturbed as I was by this method, I decided to go through with it, having gone this far already. When we approached the catch of the day, a magnificent big male, I expected to find it afraid and alert, as I assume a cornered down wild animal should be. Instead, the tiger lay quietly on its side, waving its massive yellow paw now and then to drive away the flies. Its eyes revealed a mixture of patience and boredom. It just seemed used to it all.
Hmm, I thought, I have seen this look before somewhere: in the safari zoo in Ramat-Gan.
"Actually, this is a good day. Usually Indian tourists shout at the tiger to make it look at them, for taking photos" said the ranger.
posted by Electric Sadhu | 10:15 AM
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